San José for Explorers
- jaime de sousa
- Aug 19, 2015
- 5 min read
I suppose I haven’t been too fair when assessing San José. In many ways it is as unimpressive as a plain white crew neck t-shirt – even some of the locals will be the first to admit to it. It’s just that it’s easy as a tourist to stick to the script. Ask many locals where to eat and they’ll give you the tourist specific answer – “Oh, you should go to the restaurant where they have local food and typical folklore dance performances every evening.” They think that’s what you're looking for. You came for the beans, the rice, the beer, the Costa Rican key chains, the “pura vida” t-shirts, the sparknotes version of culture… the tourist traps. It’s easy to skip over the hidden galleries, or completely pass by the tiny postage stamp theatre, or even to not know of the up and coming hot spots for food and entertainment. And that’s when San José sucks the most.
But the true heart of the city lies within those who have the city in their heart. Find them and you’ll find a hidden city, an evolving San José. They are the movers, the shakers, the artists, the culture enthusiasts – they are the Ticas and Ticos building and envisioning a new San José. They are there and you should thank the Costa Rican stars they are. Lucky for you I’ve scoured the city searching for some of these hidden gems. But, by all means I encourage you all to dig deeper – it will make San José seem cuter, I promise.
The theatre district is a rich place to start. It’s a neighborhood of San José that will give you a glimpse of the future of this struggling city. In this district live groups of people who want to be here, who want to see positive change and are making this pocket of the city their own.
Home to over fifteen theatres offering everything from local artists to larger productions, the city comes alive in laughter and cultural appreciation. Museums, shops, theatres, hip bars and surprisingly delicious restaurants pepper this neighborhood called La California. Stopping in at newly opened Casa Frida is a great way to meet locals and get to know more about the art scene. Opened just a few months ago, Casa Frida is the brain child of Mexican actress and producer Gisella Flores. With design and artistic inspiration by famous feminist and Mexican artist, Frida Kahlo, the outdoor mural hypnotizes your attention and serenades you closer. The space is as awkward as it is eclectic. A deep teal green vintage velvet couch greets you as you enter, it sits hugged by the corner of salon-styled blue and red walls filled with busts, nicknacks, Jesus and Frida. In a former life the space served brick oven pizza, but in this life it’s serving much more.
Flores wanted to create a space for the arts. Even just two months in, her vision is quickly coming alive. Program manager for Casa Frida, Mauricio Astorga sees Casa Frida evolving into a “gathering place the Central American arts, a place to exchange and share art and appreciation.” The concept is beautiful and unique enough that it may actually be an artist hot spot for the community. Each night of the week Casa Frida hosts some type of performance. Contemporary dance performances, stand-up comedy shows, musical concerts, and art exhibitions are some of the unique happenings you’ll find depending on the night. Each of these takes place in the terrace space Casa Frida has in the back of the restaurant. This is where the laughter comes from. This is the source of the sounds of music, emotion and art bleeding from the terrace stage. Here’s is where you’ll find everyone.
On top of the artistic expressions, Casa Frida also tries it’s hand at cuisine, with Mexican-Costa Rican fusion cuisine. The menu is heavy on the alcohol and light on the food. As for right now the food is “botanas” style, the Mexican version of tapas, small satisfying plates of simple goodness. The bright star of the group is the Tacos al Pastor, also called the “José Alfredo Jimenez” after famous Mexican ranchera singer-songwriter. These three soft tortilla tacos come filled with pastor, the meat of pig marinated in a savory sauce with small pineapple chunks. If you’re wanting more flavor they also provide cilantro, onions mixed with pineapple in a vinegar bath, and homemade hot sauce. Every combination is the right combination so feel free to experiment. And don’t be intimidated by the pineapple, Casa Frida understands the placement of subtle sweetness in a savory plate.
Be cognizant of the day you choose to go though. The restaurant/artist space is slowly moving toward a full Monday to Sunday schedule, but as of a few months ago they only serve food Thursday through Sunday, it’s always wise to check before you go.
If you’re searching for something a little quieter and more intimate, head to hipster hangout El Lobo Estepario. This is another restaurant redefining local cuisine with it’s neo-Costa Rican fusion style. Yuca fries, stacked patacones, and other typical Costa Rican foods find new life here in a delicious affordable way. You’ll dine amongst the hipster locals, under candle light on makeshift tables made out of oil drums. If you look around you’ll see many young couples on dates, yet despite the small space and closeness of “tables” you don’t ever feel like your being watched.
Spending a night or two in this district is easier and probably cheaper than you’d expect. French-owned Costa Rica Backpackers Hostel offers beds as inexpensive as $12 per night. While sleeping accommodations and bathrooms feel a little bit too grungy for my Virgoan-taste, the vibe of the guests and helpfulness of the staff makes you feel a lot more comfortable. This Backpackers Hostel is a favorite amongst travelers. Established in 2001 – it became the first hostel in Costa Rica and now can host up to 110 guests. Although competitor hostels will claim that Costa Rican Backpackers Hostel has closed, burned down , or is full, general manager, Daniela Carvajal, assures you that it is indeed alive, well and possibly has space open. Carvajal describes the hostel as a “chill and relaxed place travelers stay before their next adventure.”
The hostel not only offers lodging, but can also set you up with tours, excursions and honest recommendations of where to eat and be entertained. Carvajal’s favorite places to eat around the hostel are Japanese restaurant, Tin Jo and local soda (food joint) Las Cosechas de Maiz. She says “although Nuestra Tierra (a highly over-recommended restaurant) is a popular restaurant because they offer typical food and entertainment by folkloric dancers, the price for food is too expensive and the taste not that rich.”
So, explore. Get out there, meet new people, try new things. Pick your eyes up from your map, sit on a park bench and see where the locals are going. Use your senses and let your intuition to guide you. And always, always, always leave space to prove yourself wrong.
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